FOR three weeks in March, I escaped the cold, and incessant rain, of Dublin to reprise my time tasting across the exceptional wine landscape of South Africa.
In October 2022, I visited and tasted the wines at five wonderful vineyards, in the Paarl, Franschhoek and Swartland wine regions of the Western Cape.
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This time visits to seven wineries were scheduled, with the majority of them in Stellenbosch, the most famous wine-producing region in South Africa.
Its vineyards cover the gently rolling hills of the Helderberg in the south to the lower slopes of Simonsberg Mountain in the north.
The accommodating terrain, and micro climates, invites many grape varieties to flourish among the exposed hills and sheltered valleys of ancient granite, shale and sandstone-based soils, amongst the oldest on earth.
Relatively hot and dry, with a maritime influence, breezes wash through the vineyards in the late afternoon.
White varieties are often planted closer to the ocean where this effect can be more pronounced.
Stellenbosch is Cabernet Sauvignon country, making acclaimed wines with layers of dark-red berries and fine tannins, and is the backbone of some excellent Bordeaux blends that are age worthy.
South Africa’s very own red variety Pinotage, a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, also performs well here.
Shiraz, Petit Verdot and Merlot are also all planted, along with the white varieties Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling.
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Chenin Blanc is also widely planted throughout Stellenbosch, as it perfectly tolerates the warmer temperatures and drought-like conditions the region can experience.
I had the huge pleasure of staying on the Waterford Estate in the picturesque Blaauwklippen Valley as guest of winemaker Mark Le Roux on my first two days in Stellenbosch, a memorable start to another great South African adventure.
The beautiful 120-hectare property, just 9kms south of the university town of Stellenbosch, also boasts citrus groves, rolling lawns, water features, fragrant lavender and rosemary beds, and a rich diversity of the magnificent indigenous flora and fauna.
Only 50 hectares are under vine, the remaining 70 are dedicated to preserving the natural fauna and flora on the Helderberg mountain range.
Protecting the natural vegetation and animal life of this specific area is important to all those involved in this noble project.
Over a long, enjoyable lunch at the estate’s award-winning Salt restaurant, in the company of Waterford’s affable Andre Lourens, I tasted seven wines.
I had never come across the Rosé before. Thankfully, it is available here and features in the bottle reviews at the end of this column.
Exclusive imports
The wines imported exclusively into Ireland by Cassidy Wines are Waterford Rose-Mary 2022 €23.99; Waterford Estate Elgin Sauvignon Blanc 2022 €25; Waterford Estate Chardonnay 2019 €40; Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2018 €42; and Waterford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 €50.
One wine, unfortunately not currently available in Ireland, is theWaterford Estate Old Vine Project Chenin blanc 2022 (ABV 13.5%). It was one of the standout wines on this trip.
The fruit for this exceptional wine comes from vines, aged at least 58 years, on the Helderberg, and are certified as part of the Old Vine Project, which aims to preserve older, less productive vines by highlighting the quality of the wines they can produce.
The hand-harvested fruit is pressed directly to concrete eggs for natural fermentation.
Extended lees contact adds wonderful roundness, texture and mouthfeel.
Light golden colour
The finished wine has a light golden colour in the glass, with a bouquet that includes white peach, green apple and mineral notes.
The rich, creamy palate has stone fruit and citrus notes, with great acidity and length.
I savoured every drop of this wine, which will evolve beautifully over the next five to ten years.
I hope to make one more visit to South Africa – and a return to Waterford will be high on my list of must do’s.
For my second visit on this trip I made the short 3km journey to the beautifully manicured gardens and stunning cellar at Rust En Vrede.
History property
This is an historic property, dating back to 1694, when the title deeds were granted by then Governor of the Cape, Simon van der Stel, considered one of the founders of South African viticulture.
The historic Cape Dutch buildings on the property date back to 1780 and all have National Monument status these days.
In 1970 the former Springbok rugby star Jannie Engelbrecht bought the property, and in 1978 produced their first wines.
The estate lies on the lower slopes of the Helderberg Mountain between 85-130metres above sea level.
Table mountain in Cape Town can be seen to the west on a sunny day. Much of the vineyard is situated on north facing slopes.
With a slightly warmer microcosm, Rust En Vrede specialises in red grape varieties, mainly Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Their wines, all Estate grown, are full bodied and complex, with powerful structure and excellent ageing potential.
They are also serial international medals winners.
Those lucky to visit the estate restaurant will see how well the wines match with the superb food served.
Vino on shelves
O’Briens Wine have been the exclusive importers of these blockbusters for two decades.
The Rust en Vrede Syrah 2019 €27.95 (currently) is reviewed below. They also currently stock Rust en Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, €34.95 & Rust en Vrede Estate 2018, €44.95.
Some 23kms north of the Rust En Vrede winery, nestling on the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountains lies the family owned Delheim vineyards.
I have been a long-time fan of their portfolio of wines.
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Owned by the Sperling family. The late Michael Hans “Spatz” Sperling was the Patriarch, and also a South African wine industry legend.
His son Victor and daughter Nora Thiel serve as Directors of the company and live on the wine farm with their families.
The 375-hectare farm lies on the slopes of the beautiful Simonsberg Mountains, where the Thiel and Sperling families work tirelessly to protect and conserve the natural beauty of the farm, including some 120 indigenous plant varieties, many of them rare, a yellowwood forest and the abundant wildlife.
Their steadfast dedication to biodiversity conservation protects the wildlife, including 50 bird species, Cape fox and Cape leopard.
That commitment extends to animal welfare-friendly practices that ensure the well-being of all creatures on their sprawling farm.
Humble beginnings
Michael ‘Spatz’ Sperling arrived by ship from Germany in 1951, with nothing more than a tenner in his pocket.
He soon took a keen interest in the few vineyards planted on the farm.
He knew nothing about winemaking and there were no books or winemaking schools in South Africa at that time, so he taught himself through a process of trial and error and with some help from neighbours and visiting German winemakers.
He soon began to win awards, and having established himself as a serious winemaker, he embarked on a series of pioneering initiatives in the South African wine industry in the decades that followed.
‘Wine route’
These included creating the first ‘wine route’ in 1971. The Stellenbosch Wine Route now boasts more than 200 farms, and there are also 18 other wine routes across South Africa today.
Sustainable practices focus on regenerative nature-friendly viticulture, integrated environmental management, water and energy efficiency, and optimising biodiversity, as well as prioritising employee welfare and engaging the local community.
Delheim is also a WWF Conservation Champion, recognised for their commitment to conservation and dedication to responsible production and farming practices.
With all that going on one might wonder where the time is found to make wine – but the families do, and they continue to be some of the best and affordable bottles arriving in Ireland from the Cape.
Wide selection
Again, there has been a long association with O’Briens wine who currently have the following in stock: Delheim Chenin Blanc 2023 €13.95; Delheim Cabernet Shiraz 2020 €15.45; Delheim Pinotage Rosé 2023 €15.95; Delheim Chenin Wild Ferment 2022 €19.95; Delheim Pinotage 2020 €19.95; Delheim Chardonnay Sur Lie 2020 €26.45 and Delheim Grand Reserve 2020 €39.95.
The Delheim Chardonnay Sur Lie and Delheim Pinotage Rosé are reviewed below.
I spent a delightful evening at the vineyard with Nora, her extended family, friends and young trainee German winemakers around a big, old wooden table discussing the future of the wine industry, sipping some of farm’s great wines and nibbling on homemade dishes freshly prepared in the kitchen. It was a special evening.
I would have liked more time to chat with Nora, one of those people in the wine business whose dedication to protecting the environment whilst overseeing the crafting of great wines never ceases to amaze me.
While there I had the chance to taste Delheim’s fun Staying Alive Riesling, a collaboration between Delheim and Wine Estate Hammel, situated in Germany’s Pfalz region.
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With aromatics of lime, lemon and white peach, the slightly off-dry palate explodes with citrus and stone fruit notes, along with nicely balanced acidity and refreshing length.
Boschendal, located between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, is one South Africa’s oldest working wine farms, with a winemaking tradition stretching back over 330 years.
The day I visited the picnic area on the drive up to the main historical buildings was packed with families enjoying the last of the summer sunshine.
‘Perfect day’
With its original Cape Dutch manor house, visitors centre, shops and restaurants, Boschendal is the perfect day out for a touch of lunch and a bottle, or two, of wine.
While visiting I met Nina-Mari, Boschendal’s wine ambassador these days, and my guide through an extensive tasting of their portfolio.
Having left winemaking aside for the moment to raise her three daughters, I have no doubt when the girls reach into their late teens Nina-Mari will be back doing what she genuinely loves – making wines.
We tasted a range of their excellent Cap Classique sparklers – including their iconic Grande Cuvee Brut, another one of my favourite discoveries on this trip, with its creamy mouthfeel laced with crunchy green apple and citrus notes on a most elegant palate.
Unfortunately, not currently available here.
‘Well priced’
Much of what is available, and tasted on site, are in the Boschendal Appellation Series. Solid, well priced, fruit-driven varietals that perfectly represent the farm’s specific terroir driven wine philosophy.
And these beautiful and historic vineyards have also totally embraced sustainability techniques across farms and cellar practices in order to retain the country’s exceptional biodiversity.
The portfolio wines imported exclusively by Cassidy wines currently includes a 2021 Chardonnay, a 2022 Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, a 2017 Pinotage, and a 2019 Shiraz – all readily available at an extremely competitive €19 each.
The iconic 2018 Block Angus ‘Heritage Selection’ (around €50), a sumptuous blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is also available.
The Cap Classique Sparkling and Nicolas red blend are reviewed below.
- Next week: A journey further south to “heaven and hell”, and next stop Antarctica!
Waterford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (ABV 13%)
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€50 @ good independents
Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon
UNDOUBTEDLY one of South Africa’s finest wines – and possibly its most consistent quality red.
Maybe it’s the tiny tincture of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that adds to structure and perfume and makes the difference? Whatever.
What you have here is a medium bodied, expressive wine with a deep ruby colour and a bouquet of stewed plums, blackberry, and cassis.
With subtle, lifting tannins, the palate has a flavour profile of rich, ripe red and black fruits, oak, cedar, dried herbs, and a long finish.
Enjoy with: Your favourite steak, or roast joint.
Waterford Estate Rose-Mary 2022 (ABV 11.5%)
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€23.99 @ good independents
Grapes: Tempranillo, Syrah, Sangiovese, Mourvedre, Malbec, Cinsault
SUPER discovery for this Summer!
Simply superb whole bunch pressed Rosé, made with the same skill and patience as the rest of the excellent Waterford wines.
Something of a “field blend” of red varieties originally from in and around the Mediterranean, it has a nice transparent pink colour, with soft and smooth raspberry and citrus notes on a fresh palate, and a crisp fresh finish.
Enjoy with: Spicy lamb kebabs.
Rust en Vrede Syrah 2019 (ABV 14%)
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Currently €27.95 @ O’Briens Win
Grape: Syrah
AGED for 18 months in French oak, this serial international award winner shows the levels of complexity that wines from this estate can reach.
With a deep ruby colour, the nose exudes notes of blackberries, plum and smokiness.
On the well-structured and full-bodied palate, there are waves of ripe cherry and blackcurrant flavours, along with spicy notes of black pepper, and cloves.
The tannins are strong but well integrated. The finish is long and very satisfying.
Enjoy with: Roast meats.
Delheim Pinotage Rosé 2023 (ABV 12.5%)
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€15.95 @ O’Briens Wine
Grape: Pinotage
THIS Stellenbosch, South Africa, family-owned winery has consistently made the best Rosés from the country’s signature red grape variety – Pinotage.
Just four hours skin contact gives it a light salmon colour and fermentation is halted by centrifuge to retain some residual sugar.
The nose has pomegranates, cranberries, and candy floss notes.
The medium-bodied palate is full of ripe fresh summer fruits with a rounded finish.
Enjoy with: Spicy prawn dishes.
Delheim Sur Lie Chardonnay 2020 (ABV 13.5%)
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€26.45 @ O’Briens Wine
Grape: Chardonnay
A LONG, long-time favourite. Beautifully, oak-aged wine, with a light-golden hue in the glass.
Nine months on the spent yeast cells in oak has added so much to this Burgundian style white.
Citrus and peach aromas on the nose, leading to a silky, mid-weight palate with pear and apple notes, added to by subtle hints of hazelnut and spice.
A wonderfully long and satisfying finish.
Enjoy with: A creamy chicken dish.
Boschendal Cap Classique Sparkling (ABV 12%)
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€34.99 @ good independents
Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
MADE using the Champagne method, this super sparkler is straw coloured, vibrant and fresh.
Only the finest free-run juice, from whole-bunch pressed fruit is fermented.
It has aromas of Granny Smith apples and freshly baked brioche.
The palate is surprisingly full, with nice acidity, fresh citrus notes, and a hint of creme caramel, from extended time on the lees.
Lovely minerality and a lingering, crisp, citrus finish.
Enjoy with: Fish and chips.
Boschendal Nicolas 2021 (ABV 14%)
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€28.99 @ good independents
Grapes: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot & Merlot
NAMED after Nicolas de Lanoy, a French Huguenot refugee who arrived in South Africa’s Western Cape in 1688, this is a beautifully crafted, balanced, and seamless red wine blend.
Five grape varieties each add something special to the mix, which has a deep crimson red colour.
The complex bouquet has a myriad of aromas as it opens up – among them black fruit notes, spice, plums, cherries, mulberries, dark chocolate, and spice.
The palate is super rich and complex, with pencil shavings, dark chocolate, and spicy cigar box adding to the brooding dark fruit notes.
One word description: spectacular.
Enjoy with: Has to be a red meat roast, or game.
