retinol that we have all heard about is the molecule derived from vitamin A which has the most clinical studies behind it in Spain, in addition to holding the title of being the most used in facial care products and dermatological treatments. Of course, it is about a powerful asset which must be well prescribed and better formulated to achieve its anti-aging effects.
However, many of you will have heard of the new European regulations what is being prepared and what is foreseen limit retinol concentrations in the cosmetic industry. And that is where the retinal, also of the retinoid familybut with a different operation, enters the scene in the anti-aging panorama.
To know everything about this powerful molecule present in more and more cosmetics, in most cases replacing retinol, we have spoken with the facialist and cosmetologist Esther Morenobetter known as ‘the skin resurrector’.
Retinal versus Retinol: similarities and differences according to the expert
Retinoids began to be used about 40 years ago for the purpose of treat acne and the photoaging. Esther Moreno begins by explaining that both retinal and the famous retinol are both “molecules derived from vitamin A that the skin recognizes and begins its transformation process.”
From here, since both are what are called ‘retinoids’ in cosmetics, we are going to analyze retinal as possible future substitute for retinolmore controlled now in terms of concentration fundamentally.
Both molecules have different methods of action. “When we apply a retinoid, of any kind, to the skin, a series of transformations are carried out until they fulfill their function. While retinol requires two conversions to become the active form of vitamin A, which is retinoic acid, retinal only needs one“.
Thus, retinal is considered in cosmetics to be more powerful and faster than retinol. “Of course, it also has a handicap, which is that it is more difficult to formulate since it is a highly unstable molecule. And in cosmetics, without a correct formulation, there is nothing to do, it is useless.”
The plus of retinal: its high antibacterial power
Summarizing what was said above, these two retinoid molecules differ in their mechanism of action. But there is something else, and that is that retinal “has a directly antibacterial action. Therefore, if we have a acne prone skin, to pimples, breakouts and imperfections, this molecule will act better and faster to solve the problem of this skin pathology.
As we mentioned at the beginning, the European regulations, which Esther Moreno describes as especially strict, are going to regulate high concentrations of retinol, “and perhaps later continue with other molecules. Although I I don’t think it’s going to disappear completely, far from it, since it is supported by a multitude of clinical studies.
What this regulation, which is going to be implemented shortly, aims to “limit retinol concentrations that we are going to put on our skin, even the supplements that we are going to ingest so that there is absolute consumer safety“.
“Cosmetic laboratories are working hard to create active ingredients that are just as powerful. If they are no longer going to be able to formulate 1% retinolwhich they will not be able to, so they look for other derivatives of vitamin A, which will also enhance the function of retintins with other active ingredients.”
The 4 most used retinoids in cosmetics
As the cosmetologist consulted explains, there is many retinoids derivatives of vitamin A, but the most used are retinol, which we have already talked about; retinal dehyde; retinol retinoate, “a molecule that also works very well and does not require conversion periods like the previous two; and then there is colonic hydroxypine, which does not require conversion periods either.”
The fact that a retinoid does not need conversion means that “you apply it to the skin, and it recognizes it as the active formula of vitamin A. That is why these retinoids are so powerful, because you do not need those conversion steps, in which some effectiveness is lost by the way”.
Benefits of retinoids
In general terms, retinol, a fairly small and fat-soluble molecule, which means that it has no problems crossing the skin barrier, is capable of improve skin texture; increase your hydration; help collagen synthesis; reverse the photoaging process; contribute to cell renewal; as well as improving certain wrinkles.
At an anti-aging level, Moreno says that “retinoids are skin transformers and renewers, and they have countless scientific literature that proves its effectiveness to reverse aging processes.
Retinoids “are anti-wrinkle, depigmenting, firmingtexture refiners, fight acne, are highly repairing of the skin barrier and have antioxidant properties more than interesting. For me they are essential in any skin aging treatment. Be careful, you have to apply them well, they always require a correct prescription“.
The correct way to use retinoids
Being such powerful ingredients, retinoids also have their B side, and you have to be careful how you apply them “since they could be highly irritating. All retinoids need what we call ‘retinization’, that is, adaptation periods that the skin needs to get used to retinol.
The expert from Esther Moreno Estudio adds that “if retinoids are well prescribed, They should not cause peeling, redness, nor peel the skin. If, on the other hand, we start in a rough manner, or with a power to which our skin has not been accustomed or trained, the consequences will be there for sure.”
Very important, to conclude this introduction to retinal and retinoids in general, is the appropriateness of using them “always at nightsince these are active ingredients that are deactivated by sunlight. They are photosensitivewhich is not the same as photosensitizers,” concludes the expert.
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