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The town of Palencia where the nuns defeated the French soldiers in exchange for a few cups of chocolate

There are few things as attractive as getting away for a weekend away from the city to breathe fresh air and regain strength. And much better if we also choose an environment that combines nature, art and history. As you can see we have a place in Spain that meets all these requirements: Carrión de los Condesa beautiful town in the province of Palencia where the Middle Ages are still very present. Meeting point for pilgrims bound for Santiago, you will be fascinated by its cobbled streets and historic buildings, but also by the legends that surround it. The most curious, that of the “chocolate pact” that occurred during the Napoleonic invasion when the nuns of Santa Clara reached an agreement with the French soldiers: they would treat them to chocolate and croutons every afternoon in exchange for respecting the monastery.

What to visit in Carrión de los Condes

The town of Palencia where the nuns defeated the French soldiers in exchange for a few cups of chocolate
Carrión de los Condes, a Palencia town full of monuments, on the Camino de Santiago route.
BALAGUER TONE

This ancient city of Palencia has so many medieval gems that it is difficult to know where to start. We advise you to start the tour by visiting its most representative building: the Romanesque church of Santiago. Located in the Plaza Mayor and built in the mid-12th century, it is famous for its impressive Christ in Majesty or Pantocrator. But above all it has a façade that is one of the most beautiful of the Palencia Romanesque.

And after enjoying its Plaza Mayor, with a trapezoidal shape and arcades, we continued our walk through the cobblestone streets full of history of Carrión de los Condes. We will find old mansions with spectacular facades, such as that of the Girón, from the 17th century, or The Big House (also a museum) located in the Plaza de San Julián and built in palatial style. It has the peculiarity of being the only one that is preserved as it was originally, both in its architecture and in the furniture and decoration. Other places that we recommend are the medieval walls and the historic Sarabia theater, from the 19th century.

The legend of the chocolate pact

Convent of Santa Clara, Carrión de los Condes.
Convent of Santa Clara, Carrión de los Condes.
Getty Images/iStockphoto

And then it’s time to visit the Royal Monastery of Santa Clarawhich among other things, has gone down in history for the famous “chocolate pact” that took place during the Napoleonic invasion. Founded in 1231, new constructions were added to the original Mudejar building until the 17th century. Hundreds of pilgrims stay in the guesthouse of this cloistered convent each year. By the way, you can take advantage of the visit to try the famous sweets made by the Poor Clare nunssuch as the San José Shavings, the San Blas puff pastry necks, the lemon pastes and the Chicharrones or Santa Clara cakes.

The church of Santa María del Camino

Church of Santa María del Camino and remains of the old wall.
Church of Santa María del Camino and remains of the old wall.
Tourism of Castilla y León

And on this route through art we arrive at the Plaza de Santa María, where the church of Santa María del Camino is located. Large in size, it was built in the 12th century and is the oldest preserved in the town. It has been declared an Asset of Cultural Interest and has a beautiful porticoed gallery that you should not miss.

You not only breathe art, but also nature

Puente Mayor, crossed by travelers on pilgrimage to Santiago.
Puente Mayor, crossed by travelers on pilgrimage to Santiago.
Michael Charles

But Carrión de los Condes is not only a monumental town, it is also a perfect destination to enjoy nature. And, as its name indicates, the Carrión River runs through here and is crossed by several bridges, although the most important is the Main Bridge. Made of stone and built in the 11th century, during the Middle Ages it was the crossing point for pilgrims on their way to Santiago. In this area there is a recreational space with gardens.

The Cloister of San Zoilo, an essential visit

Cloister of the Royal Monastery of San Zoilo in Carrión de los Condes, province of Palencia.
Cloister of the Royal Monastery of San Zoilo in Carrión de los Condes, province of Palencia.
Getty Images

Just as pilgrims crossed the Puente Mayor to go in search of bread and wine without restraint (which made this convent famous), you will also have to do the same to reach the Monastery of San Zoilo. Of this old monastic refuge we highlight its baroque doorway, the two cells from its prison time, but above all its impressive plateresque cloister.

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