It has been seven years since Loreta Ruiz opened La Vegana Mexicana at 4th Street Market. Over time, her family-owned vegan Mexican food concept moved around the Santa Ana food hall, starting in the commissary kitchens when La Vegana was a pop-up, to a small space in the corner of the market, to one of the larger main food stalls.
But on Dec. 6, La Vegana announced via social media it would permanently close its brick and mortar location after the holidays.
“After seven unforgettable years, La Vegana Mexicana will be closing its doors. This journey has been nothing short of extraordinary and it’s all because of you, our incredible community,” the post on Instagram read. “From the bottom of our hearts we want to thank every single one of you who made this dream possible.”
Making the decision to close is one Ruiz has been grappling with for the past year.
“I have been really stubborn in admitting that, financially, it is not sustainable,” Ruiz said.
Ruiz was motivated to open La Vegana Mexicana by her daughter’s struggle with an autoimmune disease and the specialized diet she had to adopt. When Ruiz saw a lack of vegan Mexican food options, she began veganizing her own family recipes. She made a name for herself as La Vegana Mexicana, selling vegan tamales. She replaced the traditional manteca, or lard made up of animal fat, with a combination of different vegetable oils and they sold well at vegan festivals, bars and farmers markets. Then, in 2017 she opened her business inside 4th Street Market, leaving her full-time job spreading Spanish-language healthcare information at Latino Health Access.
Loreta Ruiz prepares food at La Vegana Mexicana in 2022.
(File Photo)
While the plant-based eatery was popular, it also faced many challenges.
First the COVID-19 pandemic forced 4th Street Market to shutter as locals sheltered in place. La Vegana Mexicana got by on take-out orders until they were permitted to reopen, but then OC Street Car construction closed the streets.
Now her business is feeling the effects of the rising cost of food, since many of their vegan ingredients are made in house.
“Food in general is very expensive, but in our case we make our chorizo from scratch and it is labor intensive,” Ruiz said. “Vegan cheese, we make it here and it takes five days to make, out of cashews, and cashews are super expensive.”
In October 2023, Ruiz was one of the recipients of the Siete Family Foods’ Siete Juntos Fund. The Hispanic-focused food and beverage brand committed to awarding $2 million over five years to businesses that empower and support Latino communities and Ruiz’s business was awarded $15,000. While the money was helpful, it went quickly with the high cost of operating a restaurant.
“Labor is the highest cost, payroll.” said Ruiz.
Ruiz has also noticed that veganism has fallen out of favor with diners.
“It’s a funny thing, the word ‘vegan’ scares people away,” said Ruiz. “They don’t stop to take a look at what could be on the menu that is vegan but they are used to, like a mushroom taco, black beans, nopales.”
She also notes some of the customers they attracted when they first opened are no longer following a vegan diet. Some have transitioned to vegetarianism while others have gone back to eating meat. Ruiz knows she isn’t the only one feeling the effects of diners trending away from plant-based concepts.
An assortment of vegan Mexican food from La Vegana Mexicana in Santa Ana.
(File Photo)
“People are walking away from veganism and there are many restaurants that have closed, restaurants that have been established for a good amount of time with great menus and good reviews,” said Ruiz.
Other local vegan food spots like Gracia Madre in Newport Beach and Seabirds in Long Beach have both shuttered this year. For years, Ruiz said people have suggested she add some non-vegan items to her menu but she has resisted.
“I am so proud of the concept of La Vegana Mexicana and I don’t want to taint it with anything else. I would rather close it and give it its honors,” she said.
She has considered rebranding the concept, but the menu would continue to serve vegan items.
“We want to keep serving those who have supported us that have a vegan diet,” Ruiz said.
Since announcing the closing, the restaurant has seen an influx of customers, some Ruiz said she hasn’t seen in years. She feels gratitude toward all the customers that have supported La Vegana in ways both big and small.
“I have to be thankful, because not knowing anything I was able to create something very unique, something that I am very proud of,” said Ruiz. “I am thankful I was able to serve so many people that had a special diet and I am thankful I was able to share the space and time with my kids.”
Loreta Ruiz in front of La Vegana Mexicana in Santa Ana.
(File Photo)
La Vegana Mexicana will have one last Tamalada, selling Christmas tamales for the holiday season to give her customers a chance to bring the tradition to their table one more time.
The vegan tamales are made with lard-free masa and are sold in half dozens only. They are available in flavors like vegan cheese and jalapeño, black bean and mole, vegetarian cheese and red salsa and guava.
For Ruiz, it seems fitting to close out her La Vegana Mexicana chapter with the dish that started it all for her.
“The tamales have always been popular,” said Ruiz.
La Vegana Mexicana’s last day of service with the full menu is Monday, Dec.16. To order tamales, email [email protected]. The last day to order is Dec. 20.