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Sunday, December 22, 2024

Galliano’s most eccentric designs in his Margiela era

Yesterday afternoon, John Galliano announced through his Instagram account that left the management of Maison Margiela after 10 years as creative director. “I am eternally grateful for this safe space to create and build a new family that supports me with courage and dignity (…). Human beings at their best are resilient and creative when they are not afraid to be themselves. I admit that “I am demanding and difficult to handle when challenged, but look what we have built,” the designer said in a statement.

During this last decade of compensation after the incidents that occurred in the Cafe La Perle in 2011 and which led to his immediate dismissal from Dior, the Gibraltarian preferred to keep a low profile, away from the spotlight and media attention. These years have served him explore your creativityleaving us surprising creations that range between fashion and art.

False nudes in haute couture

Masion Margiela HC SS24
Masion Margiela HC SS24
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Galliano said goodbye in style with his latest collection, the spring-summer 2024 Haute Couture collection with a proposal that gave a lot of talk, even comparing it to a satanic cult. In it I took a walk through the bowels of marginal Paris, where there was no shortage of completely transparent dresses that showed false nudes, using the merkinspubic hair wigs that were very popular from the Middle Ages to the 19th century.

Shoes that look like hooves

Maison Margiela FW17
Maison Margiela FW17
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Although the firm introduced the tabi In 1988, design was losing weight in the collections until the designer entered. This shoe that separates the big toe from the rest is inspired by traditional Japanese socks with the same name and has currently been become one of the hallmarks of Maison Margiela.

Puzzle dress

Maison Margiela HC FW16
Maison Margiela HC FW16
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In one of his first shows, Galliano made a statement of intentions with risky designs, creating the puzzle dress that would accompany him so much in subsequent collections. The designer mixed parts of different clothes to create a kind of ‘Frankenstein monster’ made into clothes.

fabric sculptures

Maison Margiela HC SS17
Maison Margiela HC SS17
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In the spring-summer 2017 Haute Couture collection, one of her most special trench coats took to the catwalk, adorned with tulle placed in such a way that it created a hyperrealistic face.

Makeup with threads

Maison Margiela HC SS17
Maison Margiela HC SS17
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Margiela’s makeup looks always impress fashion followers. This year, she surprised us with models that looked like porcelain dolls thanks to Pat Mcgrath, but in 2017 she took to the catwalk with a ‘beauty look’ that, instead of using typical products such as lipstick or blush, opted for threads stuck to the faces of the ‘top models’.

Iridescent looks

Maison Margiela HC SS18
Maison Margiela HC SS18
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In a world where neons were one of the big trends, Galliano took it to the extreme by uploading them to the Haute Couture catwalks, using the silhouettes of his designs and the pleats to create futuristic and multidimensional looks.

Mobile phones on the ankle

Maison Margiela HC FW18
Maison Margiela HC FW18
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The autumn-winter 2018/2019 Haute Couture collection was one of the Gibraltarian designer’s most eccentric, but even so we cannot overlook a detail that the models wore around their ankles: a mobile phone hooked on a tripod. This detail I was looking for explore the relationship between fashion and technologyrecording in real time from that perspective.

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